This Friday, the Olympic Opening Ceremony will transform into a global runway of cultures, as leading designer brands look to showcase their style on the world’s biggest sporting stage.
ADVERTISEMENTSure, they call it the City of Light. But Paris is also the City of Fashion, one of most influential fashion capitals of the world for decades, no, centuries (remember Louis XIV?)
Fashion designers worldwide are preparing their national team uniforms for their moment in the spotlight. In high-end Olympic fashion, especially for the opening ceremonies, all runways lead to Paris.
Stella Jean will be there, styling each of Haiti’s dozen or so athletes herself. Jean, an Italian-Haitian designer based in Rome, figures she has exactly two seconds, on opening ceremony night, to make an impression on the world - an impression that may reverberate for years.
“For these athletes, it’s a victory just to be here,” says Jean, whose vivid, colourful design is intended to highlight the cultural vitality of the Caribbean nation.
On the other end of the size (and budget) spectrum is Ralph Lauren, who will outfit hundreds of athletes of the US team at opening and closing ceremonies, for the ninth time. Giorgio Armani, another top designer, has been designing Italy’s uniforms since 2012.
Countless other designers have gotten involved - including, this year, more young, “indie” labels eager to make a splash. It’s also a chance to emphasise qualities such as sustainability in fashion and adaptability, too, as in designs for the Paralympics.
Let's take a look at some of the most standout athlete outfit collections for this year:
Canada: A focus on inclusivity, adaptability
During the design process, the team from Lululemon, outfitting Canada’s athletes for the second time, says they listened carefully to the athletes, and how they felt in the clothes. “When you feel your best, you perform your best,” says Audrey Reilly, creative director for Team Canada at the athletic apparel company.
She recalls listening to Alison Levine, a Paralympian who uses a wheelchair, and learning the athlete had nothing suitable to train in - so she wore medical scrubs.
“I was shocked that a professional athlete had to do that,” Reilly said in an interview. So we said, “Let’s investigate.” One result was a “seated carpenter pant,” part of a collection intended to be inclusive and adaptable. Other features include special closures to facilitate putting on and taking off garments, and pockets at the knees so an athlete like Levine can access her phone when training.
The collection covers all aspects of Team Canada’s journey, from travel to the games, to opening and medal ceremonies, to training - everything except competition. To combat the expected searing Paris heat, Lululemon, which has a four-Games deal with the team, paid special attention to ventilation and wicking.
And for opening ceremonies, designers created what they call a “tapestry of pride.” Hand-drawn and engineered into the fabric, it includes 10 animals - nine representing the provinces of Canada and one representing France. “We wanted to evoke all of Canada, coast to coast and north to south,” Reilly says.
Haiti: “They know their bodies are a flag”
Stella Jean is used to designing beautiful clothes. But beauty for beauty’s sake was not a consideration in her designs for Haiti’s team. It was all about the message.
“This will be the first good news coming out of Haiti in at least the last three years,” she says, the athletes' appearance a counter-message to news about political turmoil, poverty or natural disasters. “So, I felt the responsibility to say as much as I can about the country."
For that, Jean is collaborating with Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, whose vibrant painting will be incorporated into the ceremonial uniforms - a brightly hued skirt for women and pants for men, paired with traditional items like a chambray shirt. The designs have been constructed from “leftover” fabric - sustainability, yes, but not because it is trendy, says Jean, but because in Haiti it’s both a tradition and a necessity.
ADVERTISEMENTJean calls the Haitian athletes “ambassadors.”
“These ambassadors will be there, in Paris,” she says, "and they all know, even if they are very, very young, how important their presence is - and that it’s not just about performance. They know their bodies are a flag."
USA: “Nothing says America like blue jeans”
For the last summer games in steamy Tokyo, Ralph Lauren outfitted athletes with something cool - literally - a technology that directed heat away through a fan device at the back of the neck.
For steamy Paris, he’s introducing another type of cool: good old American jeans.
ADVERTISEMENT“Nothing says America like blue jeans, especially when we’re in Paris,” said David Lauren, the label’s chief branding and innovation officer and the founder’s son, upon revealing the design in June.
For its ninth turn dressing Team USA for opening and closing ceremonies, Ralph Lauren says it will be fitting each athlete personally. For the opening ceremony they’ll be wearing tailored navy blazers with blue-and-white striped Oxford shirts - and those blue jeans.
For the closing ceremony, the team will wear white jeans with matching jackets in red, white and blue. Lauren called the closing ceremony looks “more graphic, more fun, a little more exciting.”
Italy: A mix of elegance and tradition
Italian athletes will be elegantly attired in Emporio Armani uniforms, as they have for every Olympics since 2012.
ADVERTISEMENTThe podium tracksuit is emblazoned with “W Italia,” shorthand for “Eviva Italia,” or, “Long live Italy.” The motto could extend to designer Giorgio Armani himself, who turned 90 on July 11.
“Seeking new solutions for the athlete’s kit, which must blend elegance with practicality, is always an exciting challenge for me,″ Armani said last year when the national kit was presented at the Spring-Summer 2024 runway show for the youthful and sporty Emporio Armani brand.
The athletes’ tracksuits are in Armani blue, which has long been the colour of the designer’s daily uniform, either as a T-shirt or fine pullover.
Athletes will have no excuse for not knowing the national anthem: the beginning is printed inside the collar of the polo shirts, and the entire first verse is inside the jackets.
ADVERTISEMENTIndia: Mixing old and new
Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani is known for his ability to meld traditional elements with a modern sensibility. And that's what he and his menswear brand Tasva has tried to do for his country’s Olympic team.
Tahiliani told GQ India that when he began doing research for India’s opening ceremony uniform, he noted a trend of countries incorporating their national flags into the design. So he began working on a design featuring the tricolour hues of saffron, white and green.
For men, Tahiliani began with a kurta, the typical Asian long and loose shirt. He paired that with a bundi, or traditional sleeveless jacket. He told the magazine he wears a bundi every day, inspired by his father, who was an admiral in the Indian navy.
After feedback from the Olympic committee, the designer moved away from a uniform-like look for women, opting for a sari, which he says “can flatter any body type, and that’s exactly what we want for our female athletes.”
ADVERTISEMENTAll the designs incorporate embroidery of saffron and green. “The goal is to create outfits that empower our athletes to represent India with pride and confidence,” Tahiliani said.
Britain: Four nations, not one
The 60-year old British clothing brand Ben Sherman, known for its menswear, is creating Britain’s Olympic uniforms for the third time, and this year wants to remind the world that Britain is four nations, not one.
Its design for the opening and closing ceremonies “represents the unity and diversity of the UK, reflecting the rich tapestry of our nation’s identity.” says the label’s creative director, Mark Williams.
Williams described in an email his new four-nation floral motif, featuring a rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock, serving as “a nod to the unique identities and histories of England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.”
ADVERTISEMENTWilliams stresses the motif is not purely decorative, but meant to send a message of collaboration and unity. His floral motif appears is in colours of blue and red - on polo shirts, worn with a bomber jacket, and also on colourful socks, in a collaboration with the Happy Socks brand.
Sierra Leone: Reimagining the cowrie shell
In collaboration with Adidas and LABRUM, a London-based clothing brand owned by Sierra Leonean designer Foday Dumbuya, Team Sierra Leone will head to the 2024 Olympics in one of the most visually stunning attires in the competition.
"The kit features a vibrant blue and white design, emblazoned with a reimagined cowrie shell. The shell, once a coveted currency symbolising wealth and prestige in African history, has transcended time to become an emblem of strength and resilience," reads LABRUM's kit reveal post on Instagram.
Completing the collection, Adidas has embellished the kit with a white typeface that contrasts strikingly against the curves and twists of the cowrie shell backdrop.
ADVERTISEMENTSpain: A celebration of the national flower
Joma, the sportswear brand founded in 1965 in Toledo, will dress the Spanish athletes at the 2024 Olympics. The kit "combines tradition with modernity, the classic with the avant-garde, a style reflected on high-performance fabrics."
The design draws inspiration from the carnation, Spain's iconic national flower deeply embedded in its folklore. Additionally, the colours of the Spanish flag - red and yellow - dominate the design, appearing in a range of gradient prints, complemented by the carnation and other intricate details.
France: A marathon of stitches
Berluti, the renowned French luxury brand established in 1895, was selected to design the outfits (in collaboration with LVMH) for the opening ceremony.
For the opening ceremony, French athletes will be dressed in a Berluti white shirt and a midnight-blue tuxedo jacket with a burnished lapel in the colours of the French flag.
ADVERTISEMENTFemale athletes have the option of wearing a sleeveless version of the jacket, paired with either tailored trousers with trim or an elegant silk wrap-around skirt.
The Berluti artisans used more than 26,000 feet of fabric and 60 miles of stitches to create over 1,500 outfits for Team France, symbolising the distance of two marathons.
Antoine Arnault, LVMH Image & Environment, expressed pride in the collaboration, stating, “These outfits represent all the savoir-faire and creativity of Berluti, and I am certain that they will enable our athletes to shine for all the world to see.”
South Korea: Inspiration from a national symbol
South Korea’s athletes will sport uniforms inspired by the country’s national “taegeuk” circular symbol, which occupies the center of its flag. The red-and-blue circle connotes harmony between the negative cosmic forces of the blue portion and the positive cosmic forces of the red.
ADVERTISEMENT
The motifs on the North Face-branded uniforms also include one of the four black trigrams (groups of bars) from the flag’s corners, according to Youngone Outdoor Co., an official partner of the country’s Olympic committee which produces and distributes North Face clothing in South Korea. The trigram being used symbolizes water.
A uniform for medal ceremonies features a jacket depicting the indigo blue waters off the country’s east coast in an ink-wash painting style, a red belt and black pants, Youngone says.
Team Korea’s uniform for opening and closing ceremonies was designed by Musinsa Standard, a private-label brand run by South Korean online fashion store Musinsa. The all-light blue uniform includes a blazer, its lining engraved with traditional white and blue porcelain designs, a traditional-style belt and slacks.
Nigeria:
The Nigerian team will be outfitted by Actively Black, a Black-owned athleisure brand based in Los Angeles and founded by former basketball player Lanny Smith.
ADVERTISEMENTFeaturing a combination of athleisure classics such as tracksuits and jersey shirts, the kit also has Nigerian-inspired garbs like senator suits and buba dresses, which will be seen during the opening ceremony.
The overall design is minimalist yet striking, offering a fresh take on Nigeria's flag colours of green, white, and green. The incorporation of additional colourways and design details is subtle, maintaining a clean and refined aesthetic.
