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Cheers! British wine industry fortunes look rosé - but can it compete with Europe’s big beasts?

Wine wars
Wine wars Copyright Kamil Zihnioglu/Copyright 2019 The AP. All rights reserved
Copyright Kamil Zihnioglu/Copyright 2019 The AP. All rights reserved
By Garfield Myrie
Published on Updated
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More vineyards and big money investors herald a golden age for the British wine industry as it gears up to take on Europe’s elite.

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Increased investment and the benefits of a changing climate are steadily combining to turbo charge the British wine industry – but can it pose a real threat to Europe’s big beasts?

Data from industry association WineGB suggests that the number of hectares of land devoted to wine production in Britain has doubled over the past decade to about 4,000.

The number of wineries has increased by more than 50 per cent to 200, and the number of vineyards has doubled to about 950.

Passing the taste test
Passing the taste test Eric Risberg/AP

Quality over quantity

But size isn’t everything. Despite impressive growth, the UK wine industry is still dwarfed by its heavyweight European rivals. The UK doesn’t have the heft to go toe-to-toe with Europe’s best yet, but it can challenge them on quality.

When it comes to the taste test British wines punch well-above their weight. Chapel Down group, one of England’s biggest wine producers, has racked-up an impressive tally of international wine competition victories over the years.

Last year the group enjoyed 28 competition successes, including scooping gold medals in the International Wine Challenge and the Decanter World Wines awards, that judge more than 18,000 wines from 57 countries.

Chapel Down chief executive Andrew Carter has his eyes set on creating an international acclaimed wine region in the UK, and he’s getting the investment in to back-up his big ambitions.

Cash injection

London City investors, not known for risking their cash on speculative ventures, are putting their money behind the British wine industry in a bid to take it to the next level.

Nigel Wray, a well-known City investor has a 14 per cent stake in Chapel Down, while Lord Spencer of Alresford, whose investments span real estate, fintech, cybertechnology and oil and gas exploration, has a 26 per cent stake in Chapel Down.  

Lord Ashcroft - a major investor in Gusbourne wine producer
Lord Ashcroft - a major investor in Gusbourne wine producerAP Photo

Former UK Conservative party chairman, philanthropist, international businessman and billionaire, Lord Ashcroft, has acquired a 66 per cent controlling stake in Gusbourne, an award-winning producer with vineyards in the South West of England (Kent and Sussex).

Financial backing is helping the British wine industry expand. Gusbourne, which already has 93 hectares of mature vineyards, has acquired 55 hectares of land in Kent, ready for planting in the coming years.

City eyes profits in British wine
City eyes profits in British wineAlberto Pezzali/Copyright 2021 The AP. All rights reserved

Exports are doing well

Top quality British wine is finding new markets across the world. Exports account for a fifth of Gusbourne's net revenue, with sales in 35 markets including Scandinavia, Japan and the United States. Cracking the Chinese market would turbo-boost sales further, but geo-political worries are slowing investment decisions.

So while Southern Europe’s traditional wine growing regions struggle with rising temperatures, making some vineyards less viable, Britain is laying the foundation for a concerted crack at the big beasts of wine production.

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